Friday, September 13, 2013

Around the world - Madagascar - The hell ride

Before I start telling you about my day, I'd like to serve you a small detail of what I've observed so far. Malagasy people like to run. Small children, teenagers, young adults, mature or old men. They like to run. They also walk a lot. Or ride a bicycle. And whenever I look at them running or riding their bikes, it seems effortless and they seem happy doing those activities. I do wonder if they enjoy it or if they do it because of the necessity. Or both? Either way, they run in a very light and elegant way. It's a feast for my eyes.

This morning, after a continental breakfast (the freshly squeezed orange juice was simply sublime!), we rented a motorbike (tall on its tires, a first for me) and went on an adventure. Like I mentioned, it was a first for me to sit on such motorbike and it was a first for my partner in crime to actually ride one like that. So he had to discover how to be THE man by figuring out how this devilish motorbike functions. Once he successfully managed to get it started and move forwards several meters, the fun could begin.

We visited 2 different lakes. The first one - Andraikiba - was bigger and unfortunately for us, visually of not much interest. Maybe after a good rain it becomes green(er) and slightly more interesting? Somehow I don't think that's the case, but one can stay optimistic never the less. It's frequented by local tourists as an easy get away for a quiet walk or picnic.

The second one, Lac Tritriva, was breathtakingly beautiful & colorful. Which was very refreshing after seeing the brown/red/orange and very dusty landscape. The air smelled of the heat and the pine trees which spontaneously and almost instantly made me travel to Corsica!. I know, I'm weird that way. The turquoise water is definitely worth the 3000Ar of entrance fee. It is told to be sacred, the lake I mean. There is no fish in it due to a rather high level of sulfur and a local Romeo & Juliette story accompanies you as you walk. She was rich, he was not. They loved each other but their parents were opposed to their marriage. And so they threw themselves into the lake and drowned. I think this must have happened a long time ago because I don't see how somebody could drown in the lake with all the hawkers who try to sell you things nowadays! The story continues, obviously. After their death, their souls reincarnated into an entwined tree. Too bad for us, a hurricane destroyed it in 2004. If you think the story has ended, you are mistaken, dear reader! After the tree died, they turned into wild ducks. But I suspect the locals turned their livers into the very famous (and oh so yummy) foie gras and of cooking their meat into a succulent magret. I know, I know. That kinda kills the love story. But since I didn't see them, what am I supposed to think, I ask of you?! That may be true. But the love story does not pay nor nourish. The food does both. And that's the way life chain goes!

We also visited Betafo which is about 22km from Antsirabe. We ended up there by mistake, wrong turn on a "crossroad". But it was worth it. Or let me put it differently. The path that led us there was worth it (even though my thighs and ass suffered some on the very uncomfortable seat). The rice fields, the houses, the small river & then more of rice fields. They are not always growing rice on them but it makes up into a very pretty patchwork of dark brown earth, bright green crops and brickish orange or red houses. I'm glad we got lost. Betafo has a very interesting church. It looked very abandoned but majestic. I did read something about it in my very clever Lonely Planet book but I cannot recall what it was. And then ended up walking through the market (yes, yes - get over it guys, I'll always find one and talk about it). Drank a tamarind juice and ate rice with sausage balls. Well, we thought they were meat balls but obviously, they were not. I must say, I will not eat those again if it can be helped. Not that they were not interesting but... Euh, let's kindly say that they did not excite me more than that. The sauce, in which the balls swam, was (on the contrary of the ball camp) absolutely divine!

After 6 full hours of riding, walking, riding, walking - we decided to go back to the hotel and take a well deserved shower. What a wonderful feeling that was! You wouldn't believe the dirt we have accumulated during the day.

We took the P-P to the restaurant. We had to, since we kinda promised this morning as we tried to shake them off. And we always keep our word! Tonight's choice? The Pousse-Pousse restaurant. Yeah! And we tried the very famous zebu cattle. It provides status and transport and it's well known for the excellent meat. It is prepared pretty much in the same way as European cattle beef. Like I mentioned, zebus are synonymous with status and wealth. A zebu can cost up to 800€. It's meat is therefore a festive food, they usually slaughter a zebu for a wedding, circumcisions and other important events. Tonight special event was - we're tourists. And hungry on top of it. The meat was perfectly cooked and we enjoyed the food very much tonight.

As I started typing this post, I gave it the title the hell ride. Why? Well, I guess because of the motorbike, because of the "not so smooth" road, because of the hellish red earth flying around us. But really, while I typed all of this, I must have listened to the whole Britney Spears album. If not 2! And that's all I'm gonna say. Well, for now anyway.

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