Landed 12h ago in Tana (that's the shorter version of Antananarivo!), right on time. Took care of the visa. It's for free if you stay less than 30 days, 45€ for more than 30 but less than 60 days and 70€ if you wish to travel within the country for 90 days. This can be taken care of at the small but rather organized airport. Many people are employed for this matter. And even though they might not want to pronounce your name aloud (if your name is mine, that is), they will smile at you pleasantly. And that, dear friends, is always very welcome after a long and sleepless flight.
As soon as we got out of the restricted area, we were spotted by the local taxi drivers. And the negotiation dance began. Sometimes it's fun but sometimes it just annoys the heck out of me that they take us all (with no exception!) for rich (wo)men. For I am on a tight budget when I backpack travel and I don't like to be taken advantage of.
So the guy comes, follows us everywhere and when we finally decide to pay attention to him, he announces his price of 120€. Just to get to the center. I tell him he's gonna get 20€ & he cheerfully answers: but of course, no problem. He is still winning this hand, you see. Why do they first try to screw you over? I'll never understand. The trajectory from the airport to the bus station shouldn't cost u more than 35000Ar. The exchange rate right now is the following: 1€ = 2880Ar if you exchange with either 50 or 100€ bills, if it is a 5, 10 or 20€ bill it drops down to 2840Ar. So yes, we agree to the final price, hop on and drive into the town while the sun lazily comes up and touches the horizons with it's palette of every shade of orange. Breathtaking!
As soon as the car gets closer to the bus station, we are spotted again. Or let's say I am. White skin and tall (very tall, apparently) - they don't have that kind here. My friends are short & melt in with their dark skin complexion. I stick out. I would rather not but I better get used to this and fast! They are literally fighting over us, the taxi-brousse guys, that is. Taxi-brousse means bush taxi and further will be referred to as T-B and for those who really don't have a clue what I'm talking about - it's just the cheapest way to get around, glued hip to hip to somebody you have never met in you life and eventually holding his or her head while they vomit. Because the ride can be bumpy. Or curvy. It is the case here. The price is set to 7000 Ar/person but as we are about to sit into the already extremely full mini van, they ask for almost the double. We agree to go to golden middle way & settle for 10000 Ar/person.
You remember me sticking out? Well, I'm tall and the legs are long and I'm thinking is "so this is not necessarily going to be a comfy ride". But somehow those 4h go by quickly & we create another wave of excitement as we get to Antsaribe.
Today it's all about arguing about the money. So the colorful pousse-pousse is our next way of moving towards our goal, the hotel. Pousse-pousse (further referred to as P-P) is the Malagasy version of the Asian rickshaw. Hundreds of them fill the wide & rather empty avenues of Antsirabe. Within the P-P universe, there are 3 major species. The basic model is just a cart pulled by a man. Then there is the cyclo-pousse (further C-P) = a cab is attached to a bicycle. And then there is the top of the food chain, the kinga, or fully motorized P-P. We decide to have fun with it & opt for the basic model.
I read in the guide that the prices would depend on the distance. Obviously. It would/should be between 500 to 2000 Ar. Since I suck in guessing the distances because how could I possibly know where is what in a town I've never been to before, I have no idea what the price should be. But one can always count on the locals to let you know. Unless you bump into Frédérique & Richard who tell us it's 3 long km away & we have "heavy" bags, it will be only 6000Ar/person. I know (we know) instantly that it's awfully expensive. As they so kindly explain this, they don't forget to let us know they are telling the truth and nothing but the truth, so help them God. Oooh well, if u put it this way! So, off we go, shall we? They take us to the hotel. It's 1,5km away from the spot we were charged into the walking wooden box. Just to make sure, I suggest we ask the people who work at the hotel and surprise surprise!!! The very kind lady at the reception says we shouldn't be paying more than 4000 Ar per couple. That's quite a big jump from the price our most honest P-P champions of the world asked us for. I say, let's make everybody happy & I give them 6000 Ar/couple. They doubled the distance, we divided the amount by 2. Let me tell you right now they were not much of happy campers right then. All their business skills were put into test & on the top of all of this, they were handled by a woman who couldn't care less about the deception they were going through. They threw their hard earned money on the ground & left. We picked the money up, put it back into our pockets, checked in, unpacked a little, took a nap & as we were leaving for a walk around the town, who do we see? Mr Richard, with the tail between his legs and smile on his face. Blaming it on his colleagues that the negotiations went sour. He only talks to me, that goes without saying. I am the most zen of them all after all. I smile, give him 6000 Ar, wish him a nice afternoon & off we all go our way.
9:30pm
Antsirabe is the 3rd largest city of Madagascar. Population announced is of 215000 people. I must say, we walked for over 4h and I never felt like we were surrounded by huge crowds. The atmosphere is quite, they all smile, they all giggle (go and figure!), they all laze around. Or that is definitely the impression I'm getting. Yes, some of the children will come closer and beg for either money or candy. The P-P guys are always come closer and ask you if you need their service and even though you say "no", they will walk close by - just in case you change your mind. But they are never intrusive. Well, not yet anyway. Some of the houses are gorgeous in their structure and the damages due to the time that has passed by give them even more charm. From time to time, there will be a part, where your eyes will hurt from the bright splash of the newly painted house or shop. I like that. I am camera shy for the moment, but I'm sure this will not last.
We went to the market this afternoon (yes, yes - I did it again!!!). One could say that once you've seen one market, you've seen them all and partially I will agree. But it's not only about the place, it's also about the people, the atmosphere, the colors, the items... We bought deliciously juicy and refreshing mandarines and very red and sweet strawberries. Ate plain rice for (late) lunch, accompanied with a very simple tomato salad. And it was perfect. And we saw the smallest cone with the smallest portion of ice cream be served there. That makes this market special and different to the others.
The sun was warm, the sky was blue, the road was dirty and dusty, the people were smiling and I, personally, am very happy to be here. Tomorrow, we shall rent motorbikes and take them for a ride to a different place, different town. Maybe see the lakes that are 25km away from here. I'll let you know. Meanwhile, wherever you are, have fun!
No comments:
Post a Comment